Castles: Where Eternal Art Meets History

Castelli isn't just a village at the foot of the Gran Sasso; it's an open-air stage where millennia of history blends with artisanal mastery. Here, every monument celebrates the art that has made this place world-famous: ceramics . Don't expect imposing fortresses, but treasures of unparalleled beauty, where terracotta and enamel tell the story of centuries of excellence.

1. The “Sistine Chapel of Maiolica”: The Church of San Donato

This is undoubtedly the symbolic monument and epicenter of Castellana art. Just outside the town center, in a peaceful countryside setting, stands a building with a humble exterior, yet it houses an absolute marvel:

• The Majolica Ceiling: A masterpiece that critic Carlo Levi called the “Sistine Chapel of majolica .” Over eight hundred polychrome tiles , created between 1615 and 1617, entirely cover the vault.
• An Art Catalogue: Each tile is a unique work, a microcosm of colors (yellow, green, blue, orange) depicting heraldic symbols, fantastical animals, human figures, landscapes, and inscriptions. It is a dazzling visual narrative that testifies to the artistic pinnacle of the era's ceramic workshops, such as that of the Pompei . An experience that requires you to keep your nose in the air, admiring an unique piece in the Italian art scene.

2. The Temple of Memory: The Museum of Ceramics

To fully understand the significance of the ceiling of San Donato and the evolution of this art, a fundamental stop is the Ceramics Museum , housed in the cloister of the former Franciscan Convent (or, temporarily, in the Municipal Crafts Building, depending on the post-earthquake reopening).

• The Masters' Collection: The museum is an essential collection of works ranging from the Early Middle Ages to the present day, with priceless pieces made by the great local ceramic dynasties: the Grue , the Gentili , the Cappelletti and the Fuina .
• Courtly Treasures: Here you can admire the prestigious ceremonial plates with noble coats of arms, the famous turquoises , and the refined Baroque Istoriato scenes that have made Castelli famous in the most important museums in the world, from the Louvre to the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

3. Points of Faith and Tradition

The charm of the village is completed by the religious architecture that animates it, in particular:

• The Parish Church of San Giovanni Battista: Overlooking Piazza Roma, this 16th-century church, with its late Renaissance appearance, houses valuable works of art and represents the heart of the town's religious life.
• The "FA Grue" State Art High School: A historic institution that has kept the ceramic tradition alive. The Monumental Nativity Scene displayed in St. Peter's Square in Rome was created here, a collaborative work demonstrating how this ancient art remains a source of creativity and mastery today.

In Castelli, every step is a journey through the roots of craftsmanship and the magnificence of its colors: not just a visit, but a total immersion in the art of majolica.

Castles: Where Clay Becomes Legend at the Foot of the Gran Sasso

Castelli, nestled in the majestic scenery of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park , is unlike any other Abruzzo village. It is a millennia-old hotbed of beauty, a place where the land, cultivated by skilled hands, has given rise to an art that has conquered the courts of Europe.

If you visit this town, listed among “The Most Beautiful Villages in Italy ,” prepare to discover true wonders, some hidden, others monumental.

1. The “Sistine Chapel of Maiolica”

Castelli's most astonishing attraction is hidden in a country church, with a humble external appearance: the Church of San Donato .

• The Secret Ceiling: As soon as you cross the threshold, you are dazzled by its treasure: a ceiling entirely covered with over 800 majolica tiles , created between 1615 and 1617. Each tile is a small masterpiece, decorated with religious, geometric, floral figures and noble coats of arms.
• Why It's Famous: It is this extraordinary work, due to its uniqueness and magnificence, that has earned San Donato the nickname "Sistine Chapel of Maiolica" – a title that honors the genius of the Castelli master ceramists.

2. The Nativity Scene that Traveled the World

Few people know that a masterpiece by Castelli was exhibited in the heart of Christianity.

• The Monumental Work: The village is home to the Monumental Nativity Scene created by the students and teachers of the “FA Grue” State Art High School between 1965 and 1975. It is not a traditional nativity scene: it is composed of 54 almost life-size ceramic statues, which combine ancient technique with the sensitivity of contemporary art.
• The Stage in St. Peter's Square: This impressive choral work was selected and displayed in St. Peter's Square in the Vatican at Christmas, becoming a symbol of rebirth and of the world-renowned ceramic mastery of Abruzzo.

3. The Secrets of Castellana Pentachromy

Castelli majolica is unmistakable thanks to a precise and limited chromatic palette, called Pentacromia (five colours):

• Earth Colors: For centuries, artisans have worked with a range of glazes derived from mineral oxides, obtaining Cobalt Blue, Antimony Yellow, Orange (or Umber), Copper Green and Manganese Brown .
• Absence and Novelty: Curiously, red was absent from this palette due to its difficulty in firing. It was introduced only very late (in the late 18th century) by artists like Gesualdo Fuina, enriching the tradition but not erasing the purity of the original pentachromy.

Castelli is therefore a place where art is not confined to museums, but lives in architecture, traditions, and workshops, waiting to reveal its secrets to those who know how to look beyond the surface.

The Minds and Hands That Made Castelli a Legend: The Masters of Majolica

Castelli doesn't need war heroes or statesmen to shine. Its worldwide fame was forged in fire, not on the battlefield. Its "illustrious figures" are the artists who transformed a simple clay soil into works of art that today rest in the world's most prestigious museums, from the Louvre to the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

These are the names who wrote the history of Castelli, not with ink, but with enamels and brushes.

The Grue Dynasty: Baroque on Majolica

If Castelli is the capital of ceramics, the Grue family is its royal lineage. Active from the 16th to the 18th century, they defined the Baroque style of Castelli majolica, elevating ceramic painting to unprecedented levels of virtuosity.

Carlo Antonio Grue (1655 – 1723): The Baroque Painter

Considered the greatest Baroque painter on majolica, Carlo Antonio is the central figure of this dynasty.

• The Innovator: Skilled in transforming classical themes (mythological and allegorical) into scenes rich in detail and movement, he was the first to give great prominence to the “landscape” in decoration, transforming plates and vases into true miniature canvases.
• The Style: His pieces are distinguished by the masterful use of color, the elegance of the compositions, and the introduction of new shades that gave birth to a ceramic art of the highest quality, sought after by courts and noble families throughout Europe.
• The Legacy: His son, Francesco Antonio Saverio Grue (1686-1746) , followed in his footsteps, carrying on the tradition and further consolidating the fame of the Grue workshop, so much so that he also worked in Naples.

The Renaissance and its Origins: Horace Pompei and the Historiated Style

Before the Baroque of the Grue, Castelli already had a name thanks to the Renaissance masters.

Orazio Pompei (c. 1516 – 1590/96): The Progenitor of Greatness

Orazio Pompei is the artist who gave the first real impetus to Castellana art in the 16th century.

• Local Treasure: He is credited with decorating part of the first tiles covering the vault of the Church of San Donato , today nicknamed the "Sistine Chapel of Maiolica." This monumental undertaking is tangible proof of his supreme mastery.
• Supplier to the Nobility: His workshop was famous for the production of luxurious pharmaceutical tableware, in particular the celebrated Orsini-Colonna , pieces of which are today kept in the most important museum collections.

The Continuity of Excellence: The Other Great Families

Castellana art is not limited to two names, but is a rich network of workshops and talents who have collaborated and competed for centuries.

• The Gentili (or Gentile): Together with the Grue family, they dominated the Baroque and 18th-century scene. Carmine Gentili (1678-1763) was a contemporary of Carlo Antonio Grue and stood out for his refined, flowing graphic style, also among the masters of the historiato style. Their majolica tiles adorn famous floors such as that of Villa d'Este in Tivoli.
• Gesualdo Fuina (1755-1822): A member of another important family of ceramists, he is remembered for having introduced the colour red into the Castellana palette at the end of the eighteenth century, breaking the traditional chromatic limitation and further enriching the local majolica.

Castelli's true "famous figures" are their works, the indelible traces of an art that was born in the Abruzzo mountains and went on to conquer the world.

Castelli in Tavola: The Culinary Art of Terra Forte

Castelli, world-famous for its magnificent majolica, holds another less visible but equally precious treasure: a cuisine that speaks of the mountains, of humble ingredients transformed into dishes rich in flavor and history. The cuisine of this Teramo village is a tribute to Abruzzo's rustic, authentic simplicity.

If you want to savor the true soul of Castelli, these are the specialties you need to know.

The Oven's Masterpieces: Scarapiccia and 'Mmazzafame

Castelli boasts two baked specialties that perfectly embody the spirit of bread and flour, typical of popular tradition:

1. The Scarapiccia (or Pizza)

It's not your average pizza, but the mountain's answer to the desire for a tasty, convivial dish.

• Essence: This is a type of flat, crispy focaccia , baked in the oven or in a wood-fired oven. The basic recipe is extremely simple—flour, water, yeast, and a pinch of salt—but its magic lies in its crunchy texture and versatility.
• The Perfect Pairing: Scarapiccia is often enjoyed as an accompaniment to local cured meats and cheeses, or stuffed with field vegetables or leftovers of the day, transforming a necessity into a delight to share.

2. The 'Mmazzafame (The Satiety Pancake)

The name is evocative and almost playful: “hunger-killer,” indicating a robust food capable of satisfying even the most ravenous appetite.

• Preparation: It is a fritter , prepared with a dough similar to bread dough, but fried in boiling oil.
• The Taste of Tradition: It's often enriched with simple yet intense ingredients, such as boiled potatoes, wild greens, or small pieces of local cheese that melt into the warm dough. A true comfort food that warms you on cooler days at the foot of the Gran Sasso.

The Sweet Symbol: The Mostaccioli of Castelli

Castelli has also been able to leave its mark on the art of confectionery, especially with its unmistakable Mostaccioli .

• An Ancient Flavor: These are dry sweets made with ground almonds , enriched with cocoa, coffee , and bound with honey or cooked must (hence the name). They are a perfect example of a confectionery product designed to last over time.
• Special Softness: Castelli Mostaccioli are distinguished by a particularly aromatic dough and, in the most popular version, by a consistency that, despite being compact, is surprisingly soft.

These dishes, along with the great traditions of Teramo cuisine such as Mazzarelle (lamb offal rolls) and Virtù (a sumptuous minestrone of seven vegetables and legumes), make up the gastronomic mosaic of a village that nourishes the soul with art and the body with the genuine flavors of the mountains.