
The Village of Larino

The Italian village
waiting to be discovered and explored
Monuments
The story
Larino lies on the San Leonardo plain, an area rich in historical evidence of human settlements dating back to prehistoric times. The town of Larino was founded very anciently, five hundred years before the founding of Rome. Its origins are attributed to the Frentani, a people of Samnite origin who founded Frenter. This initial settlement was destroyed and later refounded under the name Ladinod, which was modified several times over the centuries until it finally became "Larino" in the 19th century.
In Roman times, Larinum was a very important municipality, as evidenced by the numerous baths scattered throughout the municipality and, above all, the imposing amphitheater. During the years of the Empire, even the lawyer Marcus Tullius Cicero, one of the most important authors of Latin literature, came to Larino. In the city's forum in 66 BC, he delivered the famous oration " Pro Aulus Cluentius Habito ," in defense of Aulus Cluentius, a Roman patrician accused of murder.
During the Second Punic War, 219-201 BC, the army led by Hannibal clashed with the dictator of Larinum, Fabius Maximus.
The arrival of the Lombards in Italy led to a reduction in the importance of the city, which returned to the possessions of Benevento and became the capital of one of the thirty-four counties into which the territory was divided.
Larino's history undoubtedly owes its impetus to the presence of an ancient diocese, established in the late 5th century. In 842, the transfer of the relics of Saint Pardo marked the beginning of the exodus from the hilltop town to the plain, which was fortified with defensive walls to protect its inhabitants from constant Hungarian and Saracen raids. In 1319, Larino Cathedral was built, and in 1564, Bishop Balduino commissioned the construction of the first Catholic seminary.
During the Middle Ages, Larino grew in importance, so much so that the surrounding area was known as "Il larinate." The village developed around the palace of the Carafa family, feudal lords linked to an event known as the Larinese conspiracy, recounted by Alexandre Dumas in his novel A Bloody Kingdom . The author of The Count of Monte Cristo and The Three Musketeers didn't learn of the events by chance, but he loved spending long periods in Larino, making it one of his favorite destinations when he visited Italy.
In 1806, with the reorganization of the Kingdom of Naples, Larino passed to the new district of Molise and thus began to enjoy its own autonomy again.
In 2000, the President of the Republic Carlo Azelio Ciampi awarded Larino the title of city.
On October 31st and November 2nd, 2002, a terrible earthquake shattered the tranquil life of Molise. Among the hardest-hit municipalities was Larino. Many historic buildings were severely damaged; the stately building only returned to being the town hall in 2009, after a
restoration, but schools and some churches remain closed, still undergoing reconstruction work.
The Cathedral
The diocese of Larino-Termoli is relatively young, having been established only thirty years ago. Despite this, Larino was established as a diocese as early as the 5th century BC, and the Catholic Church has played a central role in the city's development, especially in terms of religious architecture. The symbol of the importance of Christianity in Larino is the cathedral dedicated to the Assumption and Saint Pardo.
Construction was completed in 1319, when the façade commissioned by Pope John XXII was completed. However, it has undergone numerous alterations that have altered its original appearance. Furthermore, the façade was constructed with a very delicate stone, which is why it requires constant restoration.
The cathedral's façade is enclosed in a perfect square, a symbol of Christ. The façade features a portal in Apulian Romanesque style, with a series of columns tapering around a lunette featuring a bas-relief of a crucifixion with an angel appearing from above to help Jesus.
The center is surmounted by a Gothic-style rose window with thirteen rays symbolizing Jesus Christ and his disciples. The symbols of the four evangelists and the Lamb of Christ are distributed around it. The Lamb of Christ is the only symbol to be repeated twice in the façade motif; it is also found in the central tympanum. The Lamb is a recurring figure in Christian and Jewish religions, representing the sacrifice of Christ but more generally also the sacrifice of humanity.
Inside, the Romanesque and Gothic styles were replaced in the early 18th century by Baroque decorations, which were later only partially eliminated. Along the interior perimeter are several altars, including a prominent altar with a bishop's throne created by Neapolitan Lorenzo Troccoli, one of the greatest marble sculptors. The bishop commissioned the same artist to create all the altars in Larino and the surrounding villages.
Ducal Palace and Civic Museum
The Ducal Palace of Larino was built during the Lombard domination by the Norman dukes, between the 11th and 12th centuries. Today, the palace stands in the center of the town, but it likely stood near the main road in ancient times. Over the years, it has undergone numerous renovations, evolving from a simple structure to an enormous fortress, and finally to a noble residence under the last feudal lords of Larino, the De Sangro family. In the 19th century, the palace was acquired by the municipality, further renovations were made, and the entrance overlooking Piazza Vittorio Emanuele was built.
Following the earthquake that struck Molise in 2002, the building underwent restoration work and was reopened only in 2009. Today it houses the town hall, and in the mayor's room you can admire a fresco dating back to 1907, created by Luigi Benevento, depicting the wing, the symbol of Larino.
The third floor of the building houses the municipal library and the civic museum. When the first remains of the Roman amphitheater were discovered, the need arose for a place to house the most important historical artifacts, and so this museum was established. As was customary during the post-war period, the mosaic floors discovered in the amphitheater were removed and transported to the new museum, where they remain today. Here, visitors can also admire evidence of the life of the people of the Larino area and the importance of the city in past eras, evidenced most clearly by the coins minted by the Larino Mint, which held its peak importance between the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC.
Amphitheater
The Larino Amphitheater is the most striking testimony to the city's grandeur during the Roman era. The amphitheater was built during the Flavian Empire, thanks to funding from a senator of Larino origins.
Studies have shown that the amphitheater could accommodate approximately eleven thousand spectators. It was partly excavated from the tuff rock and partly built on a raised platform. It was a richly decorated building with mosaics, of which only the arena with the podium and some architectural elements remain today.
Furthermore, during the excavations it was seen that in order to build such a vast work, part of the buildings that were nearby had been demolished. In fact, the remains of a necropolis from the 8th century BC and of a road dating back to around the 6th century BC were found.
The amphitheater was used for a long period of time and even when it was in use it was necessary to intervene with restoration work.
The Roman amphitheatre fell into disuse in the late Empire and during the Middle Ages was used as a burial area.
Larinum
The Romans commonly built baths near large public places, which is why near the Larino amphitheater there is a bathhouse dating back to the 2nd century AD. They weren't the only ones in Larino, but the amphitheater's baths stand out for their depictions of real and imaginary marine animals and for their paving similar to those in Rome and Pompeii. In later centuries, some buildings incorporated the remains of Larinum , which is why a villa was built on the amphitheater's baths, which still retains the original Roman paving. Today, it houses a museum.
Excavations have been carried out in the current nursery school, bringing to light the remains of a paved street, along which on one side there were some shops and on the other some civilian homes with mosaic floors, the best known of which is the Kontharos mosaic.
Larino also had an important forum, which was scaled down when several imposing buildings were constructed in the 1st century AD. This is why an entire area dedicated to crafts and other public buildings, likely connected to the forum, was discovered in the Torre Sant'Anna area. A domus , arranged around a central atrium, which features a multi-colored stone floor. A square-plan building was also discovered in the forum area, possibly coinciding with the Temple of Mars, dating back to the 1st century. Another sacred site, this time from the Hellenistic period, was discovered near Via Jovine.
The city of Larinum was surrounded by a necropolis, and for this reason, in the outskirts, in some districts and near the railway station, tomb remains dating back to a period between the 6th century BC and the 2nd-3rd century AD have been found.
Curiosity
The feast of San Pardo
For Larino, the celebrations in honor of Saint Pardo represent a reunion with its history and a centuries-old tradition. In 842, Larino was sacked by the Saracens who were ravaging the south. From this Molise village, the Turks also stole the relics of the martyred saints of Larino, to whom the population was deeply attached. To bring them home, the few survivors set out towards Lesina, but along the way they stumbled upon the tomb containing the body of Saint Pardo. The discovery immediately appeared to be a divine sign, and so it was decided to carry the body away, placing it on a carriage decorated with colorful flowers.
Even today, in Larino, from May 24th to 27th, more than a hundred floats, pulled by real oxen or carved from wood, parade through the streets. Preparing the floats is a tradition that involves entire families, who follow a specific ritual. Throughout the month of May, women prepare paper flowers, ribbons, and blankets that are placed on the floats only on May 24th. On the 25th, the floats depart from a chapel dedicated to the Larino martyr Saint Primiano, carrying the saint's statue in procession throughout the night, approaching the historic center. On May 26th, the floats parade from one end of the historic center to the other, also carrying the silver bust of Saint Pardo. The celebration concludes on May 27th, when Saint Primiano is returned to his home and, after attending Mass, a cheerful picnic ends at the Larino Cathedral, where the statue of Saint Pardo is placed in remembrance.
The tradition of the Larino floats is among the oldest and most evocative of the Christian tradition and brings visitors from all over Italy to the San Leonardo plain.
The cult of Saint Joseph
Saint Joseph was a poor man who accepted the gift of a son from the Lord and raised him without ever being ashamed of his origins or his humble profession as a carpenter. The cult of Saint Joseph is now a tradition carried on by a few people, but in the past it was deeply felt in Larino. The rituals for the feast of Saint Joseph began on January 23rd, the day of his wedding, and concluded on March 19th, the date representing abundance. For the occasion, each family invited three beggars to their table: a young man, a woman, and an old man, and offered them dishes of vegetables, legumes, and cod.
The tables of Saint Joseph are a widespread custom in some villages, particularly in Salento. In Larino, they were decorated with elegant linen tablecloths nine days before March 19th, to prepare for the novena; on March 18th, they were blessed. On each altar, glass bells containing small statues of saints were placed.
Setting the tables for Saint Joseph involves all the women in the family, who prepare the breadcrumbs for the pasta a week in advance. After the blessing of the altars, which takes place at midnight, the preparation of thirteen dishes begins, including broad beans, chicory, fish, citrus fruits, asparagus, rice, and snails—everything except meat, as a sign of respect for Lent. During the preparation, nothing is tasted, as the first bite must be taken by the invited woman, elder, and younger man. Another custom linked to the cult of Saint Joseph is the pilgrimage to the city's chapels, where all visitors are offered " scripelle ."
In Larino, one of the symbolic dishes of this festival is the maccarruni di San Giuseppe, bucatini pasta topped with breadcrumbs and thirteen other ingredients. They are eaten with the hands and hold a high symbolic value for the people of Larino.
Alexandre Dumas (father) and the Larinese conspiracy.
Alexandre Dumas is a French writer, author of The Count of Monte Cristo and The Three Musketeers , some of the most important classics of world literature.
The French playwright, having learned of an event that occurred in 1679 and known as the 'Larinese conspiracy', decided to recount it in his novel A Bloody Kingdom , better known as 'Luisa Sanfelice'.
Dumas decided to set his novel about a century after the actual events, that is, in 1799, at the height of the Neapolitan Revolution.
The Larino conspiracy was hatched by local nobles, supported by the clergy, with the intent of eliminating feudal power. The victim was Francesco Maria Carafa, struck unexpectedly while climbing the steep slope leading to the Capuchin Convent.
Personages
Aldo Biscardi
Aldo Biscardi was born in Larino on November 26, 1930. After graduating in law from the Federico II University of Naples, he began his journalism career at the editorial staff of Il Mattino.
In 1979 he joined Rai, in 1980 on Rai Tre he launched the program “Il processo del lunedì” dealing mainly with the Serie A football championship.
In 1983, after being heavily attacked by Silvio Berlusconi, he left Rai and moved to Tele+ and subsequently to TeleMontecarlo, now La7.
Television host, journalist, and editor of several sports publications, Aldo Biscardi passed away on October 8, 2017 in Rome, at the age of eighty-six.
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