Marsala

The story

There is no certain information about the first human settlements in the area near Marsala, but the oldest historical evidence that has been found dates back to the Lower Paleolithic.

The only certainty in the historical framework of this village is that the first area to develop was Mothia, a Carthaginian colony built on the present-day island of San Pantaleo, one of four present in the Stagnone marsh.

Mothia was one of the crucial hubs for Carthage's trade: it grew as much as Carthage grew.

The power of this small island soon clashed with the desire for supremacy of Magna Graecia, which dominated Sicily. Mothia's personal enemy was Dionysus the Elder, tyrant of Syracuse, who aspired to subjugate all of Sicily. For this reason, in 397 BC he destroyed Mothia and forced its inhabitants to move to the mainland. On a promontory on the coast, the refugees founded Lylibeo, "the city that looks towards Libya," when Libya was understood to mean the entire western coast of Africa.

When the First Punic War between the Carthaginians and the Romans began in 264 BC, the fighting took place in the waters near Lylibeo, which, despite this, managed to maintain its autonomy for over a decade. Only fourteen years after the war began did the Romans and their army manage to approach the Phoenician city, but the shallow waters and the settlement's fortifications hindered their conquest, and it took a full ten years before they could subdue it.

As a Roman municipality, Lylibeo enjoyed great honors but its fate was closely tied to the fate of the empire and when this fell, Lylibeo also went through a period of decline and in the 4th century it was invaded and destroyed several times by the Vandals.

It flourished again with the arrival of the Arabs, who changed its name to Marsah Alì (port of Ali) or Marsah Allah (port of God). During this period, the city was embellished and numerous buildings were constructed, which unfortunately no longer stand today. Despite several centuries having passed, the Arab presence is still felt in Marsala today: it can be heard in some dialect words and in some of the town's typical dishes, such as couscous .

After the Arab period, Marsala followed the history of the entire South, and its territory was settled by the Normans, Swabians, Angevins, and Aragonese, the latter leading the city to a new decline.

Marsala's great revival began in the 18th century, when Englishman John Woodhouse fell in love with the wine produced in this area and developed a method to make it marketable. Soon, Marsala wine was exported worldwide, leading to a major revival of the local economy.

On May 11, 1860, Marsala entered Italian history, because Giuseppe Garibaldi and his entourage of a thousand men landed on its shores, with the aim of unifying the entire peninsula under a single king.

A few decades later, again on May 11, 1943, World War II engulfed Marsala, which was bombed by the Allies. The New York Times headlined the occasion with the front page headline " Marsala Wiped Off the Map. "

Today, Marsala still bears the scars of the bombings it suffered, but these do not prevent visitors from enjoying its beautiful historic center, which always provides a captivating experience.

Mothia

Mothia was an ancient and glorious Phoenician city destroyed in 397 BC by the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysius the Elder.

In the 11th century, the Normans donated the island to the Abbey of Santa Maria della Grotta in Marsala, and for this reason the Basilian monks of Palermo settled here, who gave the island the name of San Pantaleo, founder of their order.

Between the 18th and 19th centuries, sporadic archaeological excavations were undertaken, which only became concrete in the early 20th century, when the island was purchased by Joseph Whitaker, a descendant of John Woodhouse. In 1906, an excavation campaign was launched that brought to light the sanctuary of Cappidduzzu , the necropolis, the House of Mosaics, the barracks, the tophet area, and the two northern and southern entrance gates.

The island is immersed in dense Mediterranean scrub. To reach it today, you must board a fishing boat, but until 1971, horse-drawn carts could be used to travel along a submerged paved road, the milestones of which can still be seen on the water's surface.

Of all the testimonies of Mothia discovered over the centuries, the one that still intrigues and captivates the most is the statue of the 'Young Man of Mothia,' discovered almost by chance in 1979. It is a fully sculpted statue depicting a young man with a proud bearing, and remains shrouded in mystery. The statue is of Greek origin, as can be seen from the workmanship and the clothing the young man wears, but what was a Greek statue doing in a Punic province? According to most scholars, this work was stolen during the assault on Selicunte, which at the time was part of Magna Graecia. It likely depicts a victorious athlete wearing a robe of fine fabric, through whose folds the details of the young man's body can be seen. The excellent craftsmanship and well-defined details suggest that the statue was created for display in a highly important context, likely a square or temple.

To protect the historical and archaeological heritage of Mothia, the 'Whitaker Foundation' was established in 1971, and the English historian's house is now a museum housing all the finds from Mothia and the necropolis discovered near Marsala.

The Cathedral of Marsala

Marsala Cathedral is a church that mirrors the city's diverse and elegant character. It was built in 1176, at a time when the city was being destroyed by barbarian raids, and was elevated to the rank of Archpriest by Marquis Tutino.

The church was dedicated to Saint Thomas Becket, canonized only three years earlier but already a symbol of freedom and dignity for all, as well as of fidelity to the church and to Christ.

As often happens, the presence of a cult is linked to a medieval legend: it is said that one day a ship docked at the port of Marsala, having reached Sicilian waters due to excessively rough seas. The ship was carrying two Corinthian columns that were to be used to build a church dedicated to Thomas Becket. The people believed they were witnessing a divine sign and decided to use the columns to build a church dedicated to the English saint.

A story rich in the charm of medieval popular beliefs that is intertwined with the story of Joan of England, who built numerous churches in Sicily dedicated to St. Thomas Becket, with the aim of atoning for the sins of her father, Henry II, accused of having commissioned the murder of the Bishop of Canterbury.

Marsala Cathedral stands on the ruins of an early Christian basilica, which is why it has retained its basilica layout to this day. Over the centuries, its appearance has changed several times due to numerous restorations and renovations. Today, the main façade opens onto Piazza Venezia, Marsala's central square. The façade is characterized by a refined yet austere Baroque style and is clearly divided into two sections: the lower section in Baroque style and the upper section with the late Baroque bell tower, built a century after construction began.

The interior has three naves, delineated by two rows of columns, which maintain a typical Norman architectural style. Twelve chapels line the walls of the side naves, each featuring Baroque-style decorations. In the transept, there is a canvas depicting the Madonna del Popolo, a 1490 work by Domenico Gagini, and another depicting The Purification of the Virgin, by Antonello Riccio.

A beautiful poem was also dedicated to the mother church of Marsala, which ends with the verses

'Mother Church

You are the alpha and the omega.'

The beginning and the end, the center of everything, this is what the Marsala cathedral represents for its people.

Garibaldi Gate

On May 11, 1860, Giuseppe Garibaldi and his army of a thousand volunteers landed in the port of Marsala and entered the city through what was then called the Porta del Mare.

Porta Garibaldi, along with Porta Nuova, Porta Mazara, and Porticella, was one of the four entrances to the city. This gate is known as the noblest and most elegant, distinguished by its dome, balustrade, and columns. Below the cornice is an inscription entrusting the entry and exit of the city to God, while on the balustrade is a crowned eagle, representing the coat of arms of the Spanish House of Habsburg.

After the unification of Italy, the gate was named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, to commemorate Garibaldi's feat.

The Egadi archipelago

The Egadi Islands overlook the coasts between Trapani and Marsala, rich in history and evocative legends. The archipelago consists of three main islands: Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo, and two smaller, uninhabited islets: Formica and Maraone.

Legend has it that the Greek god Helios sent his flock to graze on the island of Trinacria, under the watchful eye of his daughters Fauetusa and Lampatia, born from his union with Nereea . The ancient names of the three Egadi islands derive from the names of the two daughters of Helios and Nereea: Auegusa-Favignana, Pharbantia-Levanzo, Hiera-Marettimo .

Even the small island of Formica has a curious history behind its name: it is said that the island was invaded by ants that covered all its rocks.

The Egadi Islands are a true spectacle, perfect for those seeking a tranquil holiday immersed in nature.

The Egadi archipelago is inhabited mainly by fishing communities; two tuna fisheries have been built on the islands of Favignana and Formica.

The Egadi Islands retain an unchanged unique charm, because they have not been transformed by the hand of man.

His Majesty Marsala wine

Wine production in Marsala has its origins in ancient times and this is demonstrated by the discovery in Mothia of wine vessels dating back to the 7th-6th century BC.

It is not known with certainty who introduced vine cultivation to these areas, but the most accredited hypotheses maintain that it was the Greeks who then passed on their knowledge to the Romans.

Between the 15th and 11th centuries, when the Cretans and then the Phoenicians arrived, the different varieties of vines began to be distinguished, but it was the Greeks who introduced new cultivation and production techniques from which it was possible to obtain aromatic and full-bodied wines, ancestors of Marsala.

This wine's fortune came from the sea and bears an English name: John Woodhouse. This man fell in love with the local wine that the farmers produced using a technique known as ' in perpetuum' , that is, by refilling the barrels that had almost run out with new wine, thus maintaining the levels unaltered. However, this technique also resulted in a very high alcohol content, which made the wine difficult to transport. Woodhouse then decided to experiment with using high-proof alcohol to try to stabilize the product. The experiment was a complete success, and he began exporting this wine, which was extraordinarily successful, so much so that it attracted important clients such as Admiral Nelson and his fleet.

With the proceeds of Marsala, Woodhouse significantly boosted the local economy and began the construction of infrastructure that enriched the Sicilian village.

Nino de Vita

Nino de Vita was born in Marsala on June 8, 1950. He is currently considered one of the most important voices in contemporary Italian literature.

He writes poetry in Sicilian dialect, yet manages to touch everyone's heart. His verses are both ancient and modern, revolving around themes dear to human existence, addressed without rhetoric.

Nino de Vita made his debut in 1984 with the collection of poems 'Fosse Chiti', which is also his best-known work.

Besides being a poet, he is also a children's writer and between 2006 and 2011 he published three illustrated books.

In 1996, he was awarded the Alberto Moravia Prize for his poetic work. He was very close to Leonardo Sciascia, and in the name of this friendship, Nino de Vita also runs the Sciascia Foundation, established by the Sicilian writer himself.

To sample Marsala's delicacies, you need to take a tour of pastry shops, bakeries, and rotisseries. This town's specialties are so numerous that it's unthinkable to leave without sampling them.

Our journey through the discoveries of the typical cuisine of Marsala starts from the bakeries, where we find squarato squarare' , that is, it is passed in boiling water before being baked

At rotisseries, you can find focaccia, made with a dough similar to Sicilian brioche but filled with chicken and ragù. This is a true delicacy that you can only enjoy in Marsala. Also worth trying is the panino con le pianelle: chickpea fritters seasoned with salt, pepper, and sometimes even a squeeze of lemon juice.

Among the most delicious and traditional desserts are: spagnoletta and capidduzzi . The former is made with ladyfingers and filled with ricotta cream and chocolate chips, while the latter are crescent-shaped cookies dusted with sugar and cinnamon and featuring a secret ingredient: fine Marsala wine aged for many years.

Lastly, we recommend eating pane cunzatu , a half-kilo loaf of bread seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, tomato, anchovies, pecorino or primo sale cheese, and finally basil and a pinch of salt.

Faced with so many delicacies, it is truly impossible to add anything else.