The Eternal Scenery of Scylla: Where Myth Is Architecture

Scilla is a village that defies time and the sea, and its monuments are not simple structures, but stone sentinels that tell a thousand-year history. From the fortress overlooking the Strait to the neighborhoods that plunge into the water, every stone here is steeped in myth, strategy, and faith.

1. Ruffo Castle: The Fortress Between History and Legend

Scilla's Ruffo Castle is undoubtedly the village's iconic symbol, an imposing fortress perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. It is the place where the Homeric myth of Scylla materializes.

• Historical Background: Its origins date back to Magna Graecia , and it was the Normans who transformed it into a military fortress in the Middle Ages. In the 15th century, it passed to the powerful Ruffo family of Calabria , who converted it into a majestic feudal residence, enriching it with halls worthy of one of the most important families of the Kingdom of Naples.
• Strategic and Modern Role: Its location was crucial for defense and observation, so much so that it still houses a Navy lighthouse cultural center unparalleled panoramic views from its spacious halls and terraces

2. Chianalea: The Monument to Seafaring Life

Chianalea district is a monument to life, a masterpiece of spontaneous and maritime architecture, known as the “Little Venice of the South” .

• Stilt Houses: This ancient fishing neighborhood is characterized by houses built directly on the rock, with their foundations touching the water . The narrow alleys, often ending directly in the sea, give the place a unique and romantic charm.
• Intangible Heritage: Chianalea is not just a complex of buildings, but the beating heart of Scilla's tradition, where the fishing culture, with the typical lucìe moored in front of the houses, is still felt in every corner.

3. The Churches: Symbols of Faith and Resilience

Despite the seismic cataclysms that have repeatedly struck the area, Scilla preserves important evidence of its profound faith.

• Church of the Holy Spirit (Marina Grande): This 16th-century church is known for being one of the few buildings to partially withstand violent earthquakes. Inside, it houses valuable works of art, including a painting by Francesco Celebrano ( The Descent of the Holy Spirit ).
• Church of San Rocco (San Giorgio): Dedicated to the patron saint of Scilla, this church is located in the square of the same name. The current structure is the result of reconstruction following the earthquakes, but it is the beating heart of the most heartfelt celebrations, culminating with the famous and choreographed "triumph" during the patron saint's day.

4. Monument to the Myth of Scylla

In the main square, on the lookout, a modern monument pays homage to the city's most ancient roots.

• Bronze Sculpture: The work, created by Reggio Calabria artist Francesco Triglia, celebrates the myth of Scylla and her metamorphosis from nymph to monster, reminding visitors that they walk on a land steeped in epic and wonder.

Visiting Scilla means taking a journey through millennia of history, where the grandeur of the past and the beauty of the present meet in a single, majestic fortress.

Scilla: Curiosities That Find Myth in Everyday Life ✨

Scilla is more than just a village of extraordinary beauty; it's a place where reality blends with age-old legends, offering visitors unique curiosities that enhance its epic, maritime charm. From its etymology to the way of life of its inhabitants, here's what makes Scilla an unforgettable experience.

1. Your Double Mythological Identity: Scylla and Charybdis

The most famous curiosity is engraved in the city's name itself. Scylla is famous not only for its beauty, but also because, in Greek mythology, it was home to the terrible six-headed sea monster, Scylla , who terrorized sailors.

• The Danger of the Strait: The village is located right on the Calabrian shore of the Strait of Messina , facing Charybdis (ideally positioned in the Messina area of ​​Sicily). The strong currents that form in this narrow stretch of sea have given rise to the saying "tra Scilla e Cariddi," meaning being "between a rock and a hard place," or in a situation of double and inevitable peril.
• The Nymph and Magic: Legend has it that Scylla was originally a beautiful nymph , transformed into a monster by the sorceress Circe out of jealousy, after the sea god Glaucus fell in love with her.

2. Color and Etymology: The Purple Coast

Scilla is the main jewel of the Costa Viola , a unique stretch of coastline in Calabria.

• The Optical Phenomenon: The name "Costa Viola" derives from a natural spectacle that unfolds at sunset. At that magical moment, the reflections of the setting sun on the clear, deep waters of the Strait color the cliffs and the sea with intense shades of violet, purple, and indigo .
• Plato and Light: Some historians and mythographers attribute the first description of this chromatic phenomenon to the Greek philosopher Plato , who was enchanted by it.

3. The Architecture of the Fishermen's Village: Chianalea

Chianalea neighborhood , known as the “Little Venice of the South,” holds an architectural curiosity that defines its identity.

• Houses Built on the Sea: Chianalea's distinctive feature is that its houses are built right up against the rocks , with their foundations touching or even in the sea. This created direct access to the water for fishermen, who could moor their small boats (often rowing boats
• Water Streets: The village's narrow streets are more like canals than actual streets, contributing to the neighborhood's Venetian nickname.

4. The Ruffo Castle: Not Just a Fortress

The manor that dominates Scilla, the Ruffo Castle , is a place of great history with an unexpected function.

• The Sentinel Lighthouse: Inside the Castle, whose history dates back to Magna Graecia, is a lighthouse . This structure adds a practical and modern element to a fortress that has seen the succession of Greeks, Byzantines, Normans, and, finally, the Ruffo Princes.

5. Swordfish Hunting: An Epic Tradition

Swordfish fishing in Scilla and the Strait area has been an almost sacred rite for centuries, using ancestral techniques.

• The Felucca: Traditional fishing still takes place today using the “Felucca” , a typical vessel equipped with a very high central antenna ( antinna ) for spotting and a long gangway ( passerelle ) at the bow for harpooning. This hunt is a true duel between man and fish , and has been immortalised in films and documentaries, including the famous Lu tempu di li pisci spata (1954) by Vittorio De Seta.

The Legacy of Scilla: Men of Science, Art, and Civic Engagement

Scilla, the city of myth, is more than just a scenic wonder and a custodian of Homeric legends. From its fishing alleys and its majestic fortress, personalities emerged who left an indelible mark on history, science, and art. Scilla was the cradle of an enlightened bourgeoisie that, even in the face of momentous tragedies like the 1783 earthquake, was able to recover thanks to the genius and dedication of its most illustrious descendants.

The Genius of the Eighteenth Century: Scientists, Doctors, and Engravers

The eighteenth century was a golden age for Scilla culture, which saw the birth of prominent figures with interests ranging from medicine to astronomy.

Rocco Bova: The Enlightened Astronomer and Mayor

Born in 1743, Rocco Bova was a multifaceted figure and fundamental to the redemption of Scilla.

• Science and Politics: After graduating in medicine in Bologna, he distinguished himself with his studies in physics, botany, and, in particular, astronomy . His commitment, however, was not limited to pure science: returning to Scilla after the catastrophic earthquake of 1783, he became its mayor in 1798.
• Civic Vision: Rocco Bova fought against the feudalism of the Ruffo Castle and was the first to submit a project for the construction of the port of Scilla, demonstrating a modern vision and a deep attachment to the well-being of his community.

Mariano Bova: The Engraving Artist

Rocco's younger brother, Mariano Bova (born 1757) brought Scilla's talent into the world of art.

• Master Engraver: After studying drawing and sculpture in Naples, he perfected his skills in engraving . His work is crucial to the visual documentation of the era, having illustrated with meticulous precision many views of Calabria and Scilla itself, collaborating with the Dominican scholar Father Antonio Minasi. His artistic work helped spread the image and history of his territory well beyond the regional borders.

Giuseppe Bova: Doctor and Founder

A contemporary of Rocco and Mariano, Giuseppe Bova (born 1697) was a renowned priest and physician. He studied in Florence and graduated in Bologna, before returning to Scilla where he founded a medical school , educating many fellow citizens and contributing to raising the cultural and scientific level of the village. His life ended tragically during the earthquake of 1783.

Diego Andrea Tomacelli: The Learned Bishop

Also in the eighteenth century, Scilla was the birthplace of Diego Andrea Tomacelli (born in 1697). A man of profound culture and extraordinary erudition in science and languages, he perfected his studies in Rome in sacred disciplines and oriental languages , eventually occupying the important episcopal see of Marsico Nuovo.

These figures are not just names on a tombstone, but represent Scilla's intellectual strength and resilience, demonstrating that its appeal lies not only in myth, but also in its ability to generate excellence capable of influencing local and national history.

The Epic Taste of Scilla: When the Sea Meets Spicy Calabria

Scilla 's cuisine is a faithful reflection of its landscape: bold, tied to the sea, and infused with the intense flavors of Calabria. The traditional recipes of this village, suspended between the myth of Scylla and Charybdis and the waves of the Costa Viola, celebrate a single, undisputed protagonist: the swordfish .

The Undisputed Protagonist: The Swordfish

Scilla has always been a hub for traditional swordfish fishing in the Strait of Messina, an activity steeped in history, ritual, and, of course, a key ingredient in local cuisine.

1. The Swordfish Sandwich: The Iconic Street Food

What appears to be a simple dish is actually an explosion of flavors that has become the street food of Scilla and nearby Chianalea.

• The Quintessential Flavor: The sandwich is filled with a thick slice of swordfish . The magic lies in the seasoning: the traditional Salmoriglio , a simple yet aromatic emulsion of extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice, finely minced garlic, and oregano.
• Local Variations: There's no shortage of additions such as Tropea red onions , fresh cherry tomatoes, or a sprinkling of chopped pistachios, which enhance the delicacy of the swordfish meat in an irresistible combination.

2. Swordfish Rolls Scilla Style

A classic of Calabrian seafood cuisine that is a must-try on Scilla tables, often prepared with a rich and flavorful filling.

• The Fragrant Stuffing: Thin slices of swordfish are rolled around a filling that varies slightly, but typically includes breadcrumbs , capers , green olives, parsley, and sometimes small pieces of tomato and a pinch of red pepper flakes for a spicy kick.
• Cook to Your Liking: The rolls can be simply baked, grilled, or dipped in a light tomato sauce, releasing an unmistakable Mediterranean aroma.

Beyond the Sword: The Tradition of the Territory

Although swordfish reigns supreme, Scilla's cuisine draws heavily on Calabria's rich agricultural and food heritage.

3. Swordfish a' Gghiotta (Gluten-Style)

This is the dish that unites the Calabrian and Sicilian coasts, celebrating fish in a rich and flavorful way, perfect for seasoning pasta too.

• The Enveloping Sauce: Swordfish slices are stewed in a thick sauce made with onion , tomato pulp, or black olives capers , and celery. The addition of a diced potato gives the sauce a unique consistency, making it ideal for mopping up the sauce .

4. “Arriganate” delicacies

Typical of the entire Strait area, anchovies and other small fish are prepared arriganati , that is, cooked (or marinated) with plenty of oregano and a touch of chili pepper . An example of how the simple flavors of the land enhance fresh catch.

Scilla's cuisine is an invitation to savor the Mediterranean in all its glory: clean, bold flavors that reflect the intense life of a seaside village where history and taste meet on the cliffs.