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The Village of Bernalda

The gates of Basilicata open wide to the small villages that have sprung up on the heights of the Calanchi, and among them we find Bernalda. The journey through this town's wonders begins in Piazza del Plebiscito, overlooked by the main church and the statue of San Bernardino da Siena. A little further on, the Aragonese castle, with its ochre-colored walls, gazes out over the endless Metaponto Plain. A modern city wall, overlooking the pungent scents of Mediterranean scrub and fig trees, guides you through Bernalda's historic center: cobbled streets exude a blend of spirituality and folkloric belief, with small churches emerging from the alleys and votive shrines adorning the corners. Bernalda's historic center preserves within its narrow streets all the small details that make the villages of Southern Italy beautiful. The streets are a maze of simple houses and palazzos with imposing balconies, with garlands of red peppers poking out here and there, contrasting with the whitewashed walls. Children's laughter echoes down the slopes, while the scent of soffritto (sautéed vegetables) wafts through the streets, ready to welcome Sunday's sauce, and wide-open doorways carry the chatter of lavishly laid tables. Bernalda also knows how to deck itself out for the holidays and showcase its fashionable side, with Corso Umberto I where you can savor a delicious gelato, stop for an aperitivo, or perhaps enjoy summer evenings sipping a fine cocktail. This small Lucanian village truly has it all, home to Hollywood stars, including Francis Ford Coppola, who hosted him at his Palazzo Margherita.
Bernalda

The Italian village
waiting to be discovered and explored

Monuments

Bernalda stands on a hill overlooking the Metaponto plain, on a strip of land between the Basento and Bradano rivers.

Its origins date back to the arrival of Greek colonists in Lucania, but it was only with the arrival of the Dorians in 207 BC that the first urban center was formed, which was given the name Camarda. Camarda was a hamlet and therefore enjoyed a certain autonomy. It was primarily inhabited by farmers and shepherds and was administered by powerful local lords. This remained the case until 1378, when a violent earthquake destroyed the entire village, which began to see a new lease of life with the arrival of the Aragonese. In the 16th century, King Alfonso II of Aragon assigned this fiefdom to his secretary, one Bernardino de Bernaudo, who built the castle on the site of a Norman tower, later incorporated into the construction. De Bernaudo subsequently protected the village by surrounding it with a wall punctuated by watchtowers, creating a historic center resembling a grid. In the 15th century, the mother church, known as the 'convent church', was also built and dedicated to San Bernardino da Siena, the patron saint of the village.

Over time Camarda became Bernuda, then Terra Bernaudi and only finally took the name of Bernalda.

In the eighteenth century, a new building push led to the creation of the new village, which arose between Porta Maggiore and the convent of Sant'Antonio.

The modern and contemporary history of this Lucanian village is marked by often violent struggles over land and forests between Bernalda, Montescaglioso, and Pisticci. The conflicts only came to an end in 1978, when the land was finally assigned to the farmers.

During the 19th century, the town's poor sanitation caused numerous epidemics among the population, including a cholera outbreak, which, according to popular belief, was ended by the intercession of Saint Bernardino. At the end of the century, the economic crisis led a large number of Bernalda families to emigrate to America, following a wave of migration that affected the entire southern Italy.

In 1932 Metaponto was taken from Montescaglioso and Pisticci and became a hamlet of Bernalda. In this context, the fascist regime began a reclamation of the territory, which was characterized by malarial areas.

The second half of the twentieth century was marked by a second wave of migration, this time toward northern Italy, Germany, and Switzerland. Despite this, even those who decided to stay in Bernalda managed to find employment without major difficulty thanks to the numerous factories that opened in the Basento Valley during that period.

Metaponto

In 1932, Metaponto became a district of Bernalda. Basilicata is rich in areas of outstanding natural beauty, characterized by barren landscapes, expanses of Mediterranean scrub, imposing mountains, and the clayey hills of the gullies, but it certainly cannot be described as a coastal region. The only famous town overlooking the sea, specifically the Ionian Sea, is Metaponto.

Metaponto is characterized by wide, sandy beaches and a sea suitable for water sports such as sailing. Sport fishing is also popular in the area near the mouths of the Basento and Bradano rivers.

Metaponto is not only a seaside resort, but also a place rich in history and culture.

Metaponto was founded in the 7th century BC by Greek colonists who arrived in the plain, in the portion of territory now known as 'Magna Graecia'. During this period, Metaponto experienced remarkable growth, becoming one of the most important colonies in Southern Italy, thanks to its fertile lands that guaranteed significant grain production.

The beginning of Roman rule coincided with the beginning of a period of decline, accentuated by the continuous flooding of the rivers which led to the depopulation of the inhabited centre.

Today Metaponto is also visited for its archaeological park.

Metaponto Archaeological Park

The Metaponto Archaeological Park is one of the most evocative places in Basilicata, giving the impression of having traveled back in time, immersing yourself in classical culture and Hellenic taste.

In the Metaponto Archaeological Park, one can imagine the discussions of the polis, which took place in the agora , before moving to what remains of the sacred area. Two large colonnades mark the presence of the Temple of the Palatine Tables. This temple dates back to the 6th century BC and was dedicated to Hera, protector of the borders, and was built near a sacred spring. Today, one can admire two rows of columns, twelve on one side and six on the other, all in the Doric style.

Although it is the only one whose colonnade can still be seen, the Temple of the Palatine Tables was not the only one in the area. The remains of other temples have been discovered nearby. One dates back to the 6th century BC and was dedicated to Athena, another to Apollo from 570 BC, and finally, what must have been the most imposing of all, built in 470 BC and dedicated to Aphrodite.

The ancient Greek polis was enclosed by a wall, dating back to the 6th century BC and subsequently remodeled in the 4th century BC, marked by several monumental entrances.

Recent archaeological studies have also brought to light the remains of some farms that were built outside the walls and testify to the presence of an extramoenia .

Aragonese Castle of Bernalda

Bernalda Castle stands on a strategic point overlooking the Basento Valley, an ideal location for building a fortress.

The presence of a square tower dating back to the Norman era indicates the presence of a previous defensive structure that was likely severely damaged by the frequent earthquakes that struck the area. For this reason, during the Aragonese era, a complete reconstruction of the fortress was deemed necessary.

The castle was built at the behest of Bernaudo de Bernardi, secretary to Alfonso II of Aragon. It had a quadrangular plan, with four cylindrical corner towers, the only surviving remains of the Norman fortress. Continuous renovations have undoubtedly diminished the original structure, and today only three towers remain.

During the construction period, the threat of siege was likely imminent, which is why de Bernaudi had fourteen wells built inside the castle to ensure a water supply in case of attack. Furthermore, underground tunnels were dug to allow for escape from enemies, some of which were very long, such as the one leading to the Basento valley.

Today, some rooms of the Aragonese castle of Bernalda house the municipal art gallery.

Mother Church

The mother church of Bernalda was built in 1530 by order of the feudal lord, the Duke of Bernauda, ​​who dedicated it to Saint Bernardino of Siena.

Although it has undergone many renovations over the centuries, this place of worship has always been characterized by a sober and essential style.

From some historical documents, we know that the church originally had a single nave, with three altars, and the side aisles were built later. The right aisle coincides with what was once the sacristy, while the left aisle was built in the 18th century.

From an inventory of the Bishop of Matera, dating back to the 18th century, it was possible to glean an idea of ​​the church's structure at that time: it must have consisted of eight altars and seven chapels, with a tall bell tower with two bells. During the Age of Enlightenment, the Mother Church housed the robe of Saint Bernardino, some relics of Saint Donatus, and the bones of Saints Faustino and Vito. It also had an outdoor area containing two cemeteries, one reserved for priests and the other for baptized children under the age of seven.

In the 19th century, some expansion works radically transformed the building, making it the church that can still be admired today.

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

The Church of the Madonna del Carmine dates back to the 16th century, and was built in a Baroque style to comply with the dictates of the Catholic Counter-Reformation. The church was smaller than its current size, with a single altar featuring a canvas of the Holy Virgin of Carmel, which was destroyed after the building's initial renovation.

A historical document dated 1726 attests that people were buried in the church of the Madonna del Carmine, who had to be brought into the building six hours after death and buried twelve hours later.

In the second half of the nineteenth century, the church underwent further restoration and expansion work. During this period, the crypt of the main altar was excavated, four altars and a two-story bell tower were built.

Curiosity

The legends of Palazzo Ammicc

The streets of Bernalda's historic center are overlooked by the balconies of important noble palaces. One of these is Palazzo Ammicc, a building still inhabited today. It is likely named after the families who once lived there, the Lambicco or D'Amico families, but its fame stems from the many legends surrounding it.

It is said that this building belonged to a very wealthy family, who lived in it, sharing it with other families. On the ground floor, there was an atrium where children used to play and where farmers often sold their crops, in exchange for which the owner asked only that they work his land.

One day, before dying, the man hid all his gold in the palace. It was said he possessed a treasure whose most valuable piece was a life-sized golden hen with thirteen chicks. Some say that to find it, an unbaptized child had to be sacrificed, but to this day no one has ever found the treasure.

It is said that the families of this palace are destined to have mostly female children, in fact a popular saying goes Palazzo Ammicc femmn assje uommn picc (Palazzo Ammicc, many females, few males).

Another legend tells of a noblewoman who lived in the palace with her three children, two sons and a daughter. The woman, being wealthy, enjoyed the services of several village governesses who also looked after her, helping her dress and comb her hair.

One day, a gypsy woman who had camped in the Basento Valley passed by. Having heard the legend of the treasure, she sneaked into the palace under the pretext of styling the lady's hair. While there, she spotted the woman's daughter and kidnapped her, taking her far away to make her forget her origins.

The girl's mother and brothers waited in vain for her return for years. Only after a long time, when the girl was already a woman, did the gypsies return to camp on the slopes of the village. As the woman walked through the alleys, bells tolling in mourning could be heard everywhere; she immediately sensed that someone important must have died. Returning to the camp, the woman insistently asked the gypsies if they knew anything, and when pressed, they confessed that her mother had died and told her the truth about her origins. The woman was so desperate that the gypsies allowed her to visit the deceased, on the condition that she return.

In the presence of her mother, the woman continued to cry unceasingly, but none of those present recognized her until she uttered these words: “ Signura mia signura, tu jer a pampn e ii jer l'uv, dnar n' tniev senz misur ma nun ma saput ammuntuà la mia vntur – lady, my lady, you were the branch and I was the grape, you had money without measure, but you were unable to guess my fortune.

Upon hearing this, the brothers immediately realized it was their missing sister and begged her to stay with them, but the woman, unwilling to betray the oath she had sworn to the gypsies, was forced to flee. As she fled, one of her brothers, overcome by desperation, came out and shot her, trying to free her forever from the clutches of those who had taken her away.

Even today, a bricked-up window can be seen from the building, and it is said that the lady's spirit is still there, waiting for her daughter's return.

Bernalda, Palazzo Margherita and the stars

Agostino Coppola was a young man from Basilicata who, at the end of the nineteenth century, followed the wave of migration that led from Basilicata to America.

Don Giuseppe Margherita, mayor of Bernalda in the 20th century, was a man deeply passionate about botany and transformed his love into tangible form by enriching his palace garden with rare varieties of flora. Don Giuseppe also created the beautiful palm trees that adorn Bernalda's main street, earning it the reputation as "the most beautiful street in the region."

The destinies of these two men symbolically crossed a century after their existence, when Agostino's nephew, the famous American director Francis Ford Coppola, decided to buy Palazzo Margherita and transform it into a luxury hotel.

Over the years, Palazzo Margherita has hosted many Hollywood stars and in 2011 all of Bernalda was involved in the wedding of Sofia Ford Coppola, director and daughter of Francis, to Phoenix singer Thomas Mars.

The couple, as if they were royal highnesses, greeted a cheering crowd by appearing on the palace balcony. Even today, the town still fondly remembers this famous day.

Personages

Francis and Sofia Ford Coppola

Francis Ford Coppola was born in Detroit in 1939. His grandfather Agostino was originally from Bernalda and, like many of his fellow citizens, left Basilicata at the end of the 19th century to head for the American coast.

Francis Ford Coppola is one of the giants of American cinema, the creator of films such as “The Godfather” (1972), “The Godfather Part II” (1974), “The Godfather Part III” (1990), “Apocalypse Now” (1979), and other major successes. His work has earned him a place among the world’s greatest filmmakers, thanks in part to the numerous awards he has received, including six Oscars.

From his marriage to Eleonor three children were born: Giancarlo, Roman and Sofia.

Although all three of her children have worked and continue to work in the film industry, only Sofia has achieved fame as a director.

Sofia Coppola was born in 1971 in New York. In 1999, she directed the feature film “The Virgin Suicides,” which also marked her debut. With “Lost in Translation” (2003), she became the first woman to receive an Oscar nomination for Best Director and won the Oscar for Best Original Screenplay.

In 2010 she participated in the Venice International Film Festival with “Somewhere”, that year the jury was chaired by Quentin Tarantino and the prize was awarded to Sofia Coppola.

Sofia Coppola is currently considered one of the best directors of new American cinema.

Typical Recipes

The Crapiata

The recipes of small Lucanian villages are intertwined with ancient folk traditions, often linked to the worship of a saint. Bernalda couldn't be any different; in fact, on August 1st of each year, this Lucanian village celebrates the traditional preparation of Crapiata. Crapiata is a tasty soup whose main ingredient is wheat, accompanied by legumes, which are salted and boiled.

Some people like to add a drizzle of raw oil to the soup, but the original recipe doesn't call for it.

Ingredients for four people:

  • 100 g of unshelled broad beans
  • 100 g of chickpeas and grass peas;
  • 100 g of peas;
  • 100 g of white beans;
  • 100 g black-eyed peas;
  • 200 g of small lentils;
  • 200 g of durum wheat;
  • 1 carrot and a stick of celery;
  • Extra virgin olive oil;
  • two bay leaves;
  • water and salt to taste

Preparation:

Soak the dried legumes eight hours beforehand.

Cook the legumes over low heat for four hours with the wheat and salted water. Just before cooking, add the carrot, chopped celery, and bay leaf to flavor.

Once ready, you can decide to add a drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil to the dish.

Savor the authentic flavors of the villages, among typical restaurants and excellent cuisines that reflect tradition.