Casertavecchia: Medieval Icons Suspended in Time

Casertavecchia isn't just a village; it's an open-air monument, an imposing stone fortress that has defied the centuries, perched on the Tifatini Mountains . Unlike the nearby, sumptuous Royal Palace, the architecture here is austere, vibrant with history and folklore. Its main monuments form a medieval core , a vivid journey into a past of counts, bishops, and mysteries.

1. The Cathedral of St. Michael the Archangel: Symphony of Styles

The heart and spiritual symbol of the village is the Duomo , consecrated in 1153. This Cathedral is a fascinating manual of art history, where different influences blend together in a harmonious and solemn result.

• Cultural Fusion: Its structure combines the elegance of Apulian Romanesque and Benedictine architecture with exotic Arab-Sicilian , visible above all in the external decorations and in the imposing Octagonal Dome .
• The Legend of the Columns: The interior, with three naves, is punctuated by majestic ancient columns. A popular legend says that these columns were not transported by workers, but by the fairies of the Tifatini Mountains , who wanted to help the inhabitants build their temple.
• Internal Treasures: Worth admiring are the magnificent seventeenth-century pulpit , assembled with ancient materials, and the monumental sarcophagus of Count Francesco della Ratta.

2. The Bell Tower: The Gothic Stone Giant

32 meters tall , the bell tower stands next to the cathedral like a proud guardian of the village. Its construction, dating back to 1234, is a fine example of Gothic in Campania.

• Decorated Verticality: Its majesty is enhanced by its five-story layout, enlivened by a series of mullioned windows with human figures and heads, lending it a dynamism rare in the medieval architecture of the area. It is the panoramic viewpoint par excellence, even though today its beauty can only be admired from the outside.

3. The Castle Ruins and the Falcon Tower: The Strength of the Past

In a dominant position, the ruins of the Castle – once a Lombard bastion and later fortified by the Normans and Swabians – recall Casertavecchia's role as a strategic stronghold .

• The Maschio and the Primacy: The most iconic monument in the complex is the Torre dei Falchi (or Maschio ), one of the largest circular towers in Europe. It was the lord's residence and, with its massive size, symbolizes the power and isolation of the village during the centuries of its splendor.
• Mysteries Under the Walls: The Castle area is steeped in legends, including that of the ghost of Countess Siffridina , a tormented soul who, it is said, still watches over the village.

4. The Church of the Annunciation: Gothic Elegance

Hidden among the alleys, the Church of the Annunziata is a small, precious jewel from the late 14th century. Although remodeled, it retains a delicate Gothic façade

• Poetic Details: The rose window and the slender ogival single-lancet windows bear witness to the original layout, offering a stylistic contrast with the Baroque portal added at a later date.

In Casertavecchia, every step on the cobblestones is a step back in history. Which of these medieval monuments are you most interested in exploring in depth?

Casertavecchia: Legends, Styles, and Hidden Treasures of the Village

Casertavecchia is much more than a medieval village; it's a canvas of stories painted on the Tifatini Mountains. Its timeless beauty is imbued with an ancient charm, a place where history, architecture, and folklore are inextricably intertwined. While the "new" Caserta is famous for the Bourbon Palace, the "old" one holds secrets dating back to the Lombards and Normans.

Here are the most fascinating curiosities that make Casertavecchia an unforgettable experience.

1. The Ghost of Countess Siffridina: An Eternal Love in the Castle

The evocative ruins of the Lombard-Norman Castle ghost of Siffridina , the unfortunate wife of Thomas Aquinas, Count of Caserta, wanders within its walls and through the town's alleys

• Imprisonment and Grief: After her husband's death in the 14th century, Siffridina was imprisoned in Trani Castle by the Angevins, but according to legend, her spirit never left Casertavecchia.
• Night Laments: It is said that on winter nights, her lament echoes among the ruins of the castle and the Cathedral, testifying to an eternal and desperate bond with the village that was her home.

2. The Columns of the Cathedral and the Gift of the Fairies

The grandiose Cathedral of St. Michael the Archangel hides a myth about its very construction.

• Supernatural Help: The imposing columns supporting the three naves of the interior come from an ancient Roman site on the nearby Calatia plain. The challenge of transporting such heavy loads to the top of the mountain was enormous for the time.
• The Magic of the Tifatini: Popular tradition has transformed this difficulty into legend: it was the fairies of the Tifatini Mountains who transported the columns, carrying them one by one on their heads, to help the residents complete their beloved Cathedral. A tale that blends faith and mountain folklore.

3. Architectural Style: A Melting Pot of Civilizations

The Cathedral of Casertavecchia is an architectural masterpiece precisely because of its heterogeneity, which reflects the different historical dominations.

• Mediterranean Synthesis: Its structure is a harmonious fusion of Apulian Romanesque (visible in the solemn façade), Benedictine , and especially Arab-Sicilian styles . The latter style is evident in the polychrome inlay decorations and the intertwined arches of the octagonal dome, a direct reference to Sicilian architecture. A true testament to Casertavecchia's connection to the great trade and architectural styles of the Mediterranean, despite its hilltop location.

4. The “Spiritelli” and the Artisan Renaissance

Strolling through the alleys, you come across an iconic element of the village: the Spiritelli di Casertavecchia .

• Ursula's Legacy: The idea for these cute terracotta figures is linked to Ursula Pannwitz , a German artist who fell in love with the village in the 1970s and restored the historic “Casa delle Bifore” .
• Terracotta Good Luck Charms: Ursula began decorating jars and small ornaments with funny, mischievous faces (the sprites ), which represented the local folk and slightly mischievous spirit. These objects, sold in the shops, have become a modern good luck charm and an emblem of local craftsmanship.

Casertavecchia is proof that true wealth isn't always found in ostentation, but in the depth of its history and the power of its legend. Which of these myths fascinated you the most?

The Historical and Noble Figures of the Village

While the list of famous births is absent, Casertavecchia has been the center of political and religious life for centuries, providing home and burial place to important members of the ruling families.

1. Francesco della Ratta: The Count of the Cathedral

In the heart of the Cathedral of San Michele Arcangelo, the true monumental heart of Casertavecchia, rests a historical figure of great importance: Count Francesco della Ratta .

• Eternal Memory: Francesco della Ratta was Count of Caserta from 1328 to 1359. His monumental tomb inside the Cathedral is one of the most tangible testimonies to the temporal power the town wielded during the Middle Ages, particularly under Angevin rule. The presence of his burial in this sacred place underscores the political and strategic importance of Casertavecchia.

The Inspirational Figures of Myth and Folklore

Casertavecchia's true celebrity heritage lies in the figures who have enriched its folklore, mystery, and contemporary cultural identity.

2. Siffridina: The Ghost of the Countess

The most famous and evocative figure linked to Casertavecchia is not a living person, but a ghost . It is Countess Siffridina , wife of Thomas Aquinas, imprisoned in another castle and died far from her beloved village.

• The Eternal Legend: According to popular legend, Siffridina's soul never found peace and returned to Casertavecchia. It is said that her restless spirit still wanders among the ruins of the Castle and the Cathedral , especially on cold winter nights, accompanied by long laments that testify to her eternal bond with the fortress on the Tifatini Hills. A story that perfectly embodies the arcane charm of the medieval village.

3. Ursula Pannwitz: The Artist of the “Little Spirits”

A figure of great importance to the contemporary identity of Casertavecchia is the German artist Ursula Pannwitz . Not a native, but an adoptive mother, Ursula has left an indelible mark on modern folklore.

• The Creator of Symbols: After moving to the village, Ursula restored the ancient "Casa delle Bifore" (House ) and created the "Spiritelli di Casertavecchia" : small terracotta jars decorated with funny, mischievous faces. These objects, sold in the shops, have become the village's symbolic souvenirs and good luck charms , demonstrating how even a modern figure can profoundly impact the tradition of an ancient place.

In short, Casertavecchia does not celebrate cover figures, but preserves the names of medieval counts and figures who, through legend or popular art , keep its historical story alive and unique.

Casertavecchia at the Table: Mountain Flavors, Rural Tradition

The cuisine of Casertavecchia is an authentic expression of its territory: hearty recipes born from rural wisdom and the richness of the Tifatini Mountains . Unlike the seafood cuisine of the coast, here the flavors of the land, wild vegetables, and simple ingredients triumph, expertly transformed into dishes that warm the soul.

Entering a village tavern is like leafing through an ancient recipe book, where every ingredient has a story and every dish is a celebration of Caserta tradition .

First Courses and Main Courses: The Heart of the Medieval Table

The local cuisine is renowned for its expert use of legumes, wild vegetables, and homemade pasta, which give dishes an unmistakable, authentic character.

1. Pettolelle with Beans (or Laganelle with Beans)

This is a staple of Caserta's poor-man's cuisine. Pettolelle (or Laganelle ) are a type of fresh pasta, similar to short, irregular strips.

• Peasant Essence: Pettolelle are paired with cannellini beans , stewed in a light tomato sauce and seasoned with oregano. It's a dish that celebrates simplicity and nutritional completeness, often accompanied, according to ancient tradition, by scagliuozzi (cornmeal fritters) placed on the bottom of the plate.

2. The Menesta 'Mmaretata (Married Soup)

Although typical of Campania, the Tifatini variant has a distinctive flavor. The name, meaning "married soup," comes from the perfect marriage of meat and bitter vegetables.

• A Perfect Marriage: This is a hearty soup made with pork (rind, trotter, or sausage) and a generous mix of bold, flavorful Campanian vegetables, such as escarole and chicory . A hearty and flavorful dish, traditionally associated with the Christmas season but ubiquitous on winter menus.

3. The Cianfotta

Its name derives from a Neapolitan word meaning “combination” or “hodgepodge”.

• All the Vegetables of the Mountain: Cianfotta is a vegetable stew that celebrates the produce of the garden and the woods: eggplant, potatoes, peppers, and, in Casertavecchia, often enriched with the wild asparagus that grows abundantly on the Tifatini Hills. It's a fresh and fragrant side dish (or a light main course), a celebration of seasonality and variety.

The Delights of the Territory and the Gifts of Nature

Casertavecchia's cuisine is not limited to classic dishes, but is enriched with the unique products of its hilly environment.

4. The Caserta Black Pig

A top-quality product of the province, the Caserta Black Pig (a native breed) is the basis of high-quality cured meats and tasty main courses.

• Fine Cured Meats: From hams to pancetta and soppressata, the meat of this pig, often raised in the wild, offers intense and unique flavors, often served on platters in local taverns.

5. Wild Asparagus and Tifatino Honey

The surrounding woods provide precious ingredients that end up directly in your dishes.

• Asparagus Fritters: In spring, wild asparagus harvested on the Tifatini hills becomes the star of simple yet delicious fritters or adds flavor to hearty first courses like "Scacchi primavera," a typical dish from an old trattoria in the village.
• Natural Sweetness: honey -producing area (acacia, chestnut, forest), a local artisanal product of the highest quality that accompanies fresh cheeses or traditional desserts.

The gastronomy of Casertavecchia is an experience that goes beyond taste: it's a journey through the history and nature of the Tifatini Mountains. Are you ready to sit down in one of the medieval taverns to savor these ancient flavors?